Make a final check that all cables, wires and shift linkage are disconnected from the transfer case, then move the jack to the rear until the transfer case input shaft is clear of the transmission. Lower the transfer case and remove it from under the vehicle. Support the engine with a jack. Use a block of wood under the oil pan to spread the load.
Keep the engine supported during the entire time the transmission is out of the vehicle so you don't strain the engine mounts. Support the transmission with a jack - preferably a jack made for this purpose see illustration. Safety chains will help steady the transmission on the jack. Remove the rear transmission mount-to-cross member nuts see illustration. If you don? The best way to flush the cooler is with a special tank-type flushing machine.
Transmission shops have these machines, but it? The best at-home method we found is to use an electric drill-powered fluid pump. These pumps are commonly available from hardware stores at a reasonable price. Fill up a bucket or similar container with solvent and connect the suction side of the pump to a short hose, placing the other end of the hose in the bucket.
Connect another short hose between the pump outlet and one of the cooler lines, then connect a hose from the other cooler line, placing the other end of the hose in the bucket see illustration. Run the pump until the solvent coming out of the return line comes out clean. Then disconnect the pump and blow compressed air through the cooler line until no more solvent comes out the other line.
If solvent does not flow through to the return line, the cooler is plugged, and you? After flushing the cooler with solvent and blowing it out with compressed air, use the pump to circulate some new ATF through the cooler.
This will ensure that all solvent has been purged from the cooler. Before assuming your cooler is now good to go, check to see if there is a leak. To test the cooler, securely plug the end of one of the cooler lines, then apply compressed air at about 30 psi to the other line. Any bubbles at all are an indication there is a leak and the cooler will need to be repaired or replaced.
Continue to apply pressure for ten minutes or so which you watch the radiator opening. When disassembling a clutch pack, keep the clutch components in the exact order as the original stack-up.
Make notes on the number of plates, the installed direction and location of backing plates, apply plates, waved plates, etc. Differences may exist between your model and the model shown. The correct components for your transaxle should be in the overhaul kit, if you purchased the correct kit. Lubricate the clutch friction plates with ATF before installation. One way to accomplish this, is to dip them in a shallow pan of ATF. Before removing a piston seal, note the installed direction of the seal lip.
The piston seals must be installed with the seal lip facing the correct direction. If the seal is installed with the lip facing the wrong way, the piston will not operate properly. If unsure, a common rule-of-thumb is this: the seal lips always faces pressure. Rebuilding an automatic or manual transmission or the rear end of a light - duty truck requires skills and specialized tools that few hobbyists possess.
This means that if your truck shows wear in the driveline components , you will This new edition also contains a complete step-by-step rebuild of Includes specifications, torque settings, problem diagnosis, shift speeds plus more information. This book is from an Australian publisher, and covers both American and Australian applications.
Ford transmissions. Manual 3 speed, 4 speed and 5 speed single rail, Top Loader, T5 and M Step by step instructions for a pull down and rebuild. Max Ellery Publications; Publisher of automotive repair manuals, restoration guides, technical publications and general interest books for the automobile enthusiast. For people with a wide range of interests, including 4x4 owners, restorers, hot rodders, engine builders, DIY people, mechanics and enthusiasts.
Overdrive gears, once popular before WWII, were now becoming popular again, as manufacturers were under increasing pressure to raise fuel economy to meet ever more demanding EPA standards. A nice byproduct of that was more comfortable cruising speeds, where your engine didn't have to work so hard in addition to getting better fuel economy. Performance modifications are also covered, as well as an ID guide for various model numbers, evolutionary design changes, shift kit installation, and torque converter selection.
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